Method for the manufacture of stockings and the like



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Affarw qya Oct. 18, 1949. H. G. A. LEULlETTE METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND THE LIKE 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 8, 1946 IN: a

Oct. 18, 1949. H. e. A. LEULIETTE 2,485,004

' METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND THE LIKE Filed March 8, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 By 4 Ma I flfio/weys.

Oct. 18, 1949. H. G. A. LEULIETTE 2,435,004

METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND THE LIKE Filed March 8, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Oct. 18, 1949 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND THE LIKE Henri Gustave Auguste Leuliette, Paris, France Section 1, Public Law 690, August 8, 1946 Patent expires September 16, 1959 5 Claims.

This invention relates to a method for the manufacture of stockings, underwear and the like.

It is well known that stockings and like articles can be made by cutting the whole of the stocking from a piece of fabric such as tulle, for instance, which is reinforced in the regions from which are to be cut the parts of the blank which are intended to form the portions of the article which must have the highest strength, that is to say, for instance, in a stocking, the top part, the heel, the toe and possibly the sole. For this purpose the so prepared fabric comprises the repetition of groups of portions which are not reinforced and of portions which are reinforced and from which blanks are cut out in such a manner that each of them comprises together the nonreinforced body of the article and the reinforced parts of the latter.

The reinforced parts of the blank which are to be lined are then folded on themselves and sewn together, then the so prepared blank is folded along its longitudinal axis and the edges which are to be united for formin the finished article are sewn edge on edge after which, if necessary, the article is pressed in the presence of heat to confer on it its definitive form.

Instead of cutting out and then sewing blanks such as those above defined, it has also been proposed to fold the fabric before cutting it and then to sew both so folded parts of the fabric according to a pattern while simultaneously cutting off the excess of non-reinforced and of reinforced fabric.

Such methods have the disadvantage of causing a Waste of material, since the area of the fabric from which the reinforced parts of the stocking are to be cut out are larger than that strictly necessary for forming the parts in question; this involves the production of non-negligible scraps of reinforced fabric, that is to say of fabric the manufacture of which requires more material.

Furthermore, another kind of loss arises in the manufacture, the non-used reinforced parts having generally cost more to manufacture than the remainder of the fabric.

Finally, another considerable disadvantage of this type of manufacture consists in that, irrespective of the process of the operation-cutting out before folding, then sewing, or foldin and finally sewing and cutting out simultaneouslyit is difficult to cut a symmetrical blank because of the diaphanous quality of the fabric, and it is almost impossible, often with tulle fabrics, to obtain a sewing conducing to a salable article.

This results in defective products if expensive devices or exceedingly skillful workmanship are not employed; anyhow, the manufacturing costs are higher and the quality of the articles is less good.

The present invention has for its object to provide a method of manufacturing stockings or underwear and similar articles which allows the elimination of all the said disadvantages and con-- duces to a manufacture of higher quality at lower cost.

This method essentially consists in preparing a fabric corresponding to the article which is to be made and in which the only reinforced areas of fabric are those which will form, after sewing, the reinforced parts of the stocking. Thus the reinforced parts of the fabric are strictly limited to the reinforced parts of the article to be manufactured; therefore, the area of the reinforced parts of the fabric is, with the exception of the seams, that of the reinforced parts of the article. The blank is then cut out, as regards the parts of the article which are to be reinforced, along theedges of the reinforced surfaces of the fabric. To finish the article, the reinforced part or parts which must form the lined part or parts of the article are sewn together edge on edge and then the whole of the so prepared blank is sewn edge on edge along the parts which are to be united. In order to insure a more correct cutting out and an easier sewing of the body of the article itself, i. e. besides its reinforced parts, it is advantageous to incorporate in the fabric a very narrow reinforcement along the outlines of the blank.

When operating in the above described manner the manufacture of articles of perfect quality is very easy, since it is not necessary to take any special care for tracing the outlines of the blank on the fabric nor to eifect a folding of the fabric along a longitudinal axis of symmetry with respect to the reinforced parts; the only requirement is to cut out the blank along the edge of the reinforcements to form the blank of the stocking and then to sew the said edges together.

On the other hand, one may give to the edges of the reinforcements which are located on the inner side of the blank any desired outline which corresponds to the form which the reinforcements must have at this spot once. the article is finished.

Finally, by weaving along the outer edgesof the reinforced parts of the fabric which are to be cut out, a narrow band consisting of larger stitches '3 than those of the fabric corresponding to the body of the article, the cutting out along the said edges will be simplified.

Moreover, the use of the method according to the invention results in an economy of starting.

materials and of weaving since the area of the reinforced parts of the fabric is strictly limited to that of the reinforcements embodied in the finished articles.

The appended drawings show, by way of example, various forms of application of the invention.

In these drawings:

Figure 1 shows a fragment of a fabric for the manufacture of stockings from a reinforced fabric, according to hitherto known practice.

Figure 2 shows a fragment of a fabric according to the invention and intended for the manufacture of a stocking.

Figure 3 shows a stockin made from the fabric shown in Figure 2.

Figure 4 shows a fragment of a fabric according to the invention and intended for the manufacture of a pair of drawers reinforced between the legs.

Figure 5 is a front view of the finished pair of drawers.

Figure 6 is a front view of a fragment of fabric according to the invention for the manufacture of a stocking with partially lined reinforcements.

Figure '7 shows one of the stockings obtained with the fabric according to Figure 6.

In the form in which it was formerly made the reinforced fabric intended for the manufacture of stockings by cutting out and sewing, comprised (see Figure 1) a fabric I from which the stocking blank was to be cut and a reinforced part 2 from which the reinforced parts were to be cut for the heel, the foot and the toe. The folding for the manufacture of the stockings was effected along the lines A--A, A'-A and so on. The cutting was effected along outlines such as 3, 4, 5, 6, I, 8, 9, II), II. It can be seen that, in the manufacture of a stocking by this method, the cutting out and the sewing can give rise to mistakes even if a tracing pattern is used. Be-

sides, it is indispensable to accomplish the cutting out along the lines 4, 5, 6 and I, 8, 9, III in an absolutely symmetrical manner with respect to the folding lines A--A, AA'.

As will be clear, with such a method, a large part of the reinforced fabric is lost, since only the reinforced areas 3, 4, II), II on one hand, and 6, 6a, 7, Ia, 8, lb, 6b, 6 on the other hand are used; there is therefore a large Waste of starting material. This results at the same time in a diminution of the production of the loom which has worked unnecessarily to reinforce the lost reinforced portions.

In the form of execution of the method according to the invention such as it is shown in Figures 2, 3 and 4 the reinforcement of the fabric is strictly limited to the reinforced parts of the finished article. For this purpose for a stocking, for instance, the fabric is reinforced along the areas I2, I3, I4 and I5 and along the area which is delimited by the outline I6, I'I, I8, I9, 28, 2I, 22, 23 and I6 representing the reinforced parts of the fabric which exactly correspond to the reinforcements of the finished stocking shown in Figure 3. At the bottom of Figure 2 is shown the reinforcement I2, I3, I4, I5 intended to form the top part of the stocking after folding along the line B--B and sewing of I2, I5 on I 3, I4, while the area of the reinforced fabric which is determined by the outline I6, I'l, I8, I 9, 20, 2|,

4 22, 23, I6 exactly represents the part of the fabric which, after cutting out and sewing, will form the heel, the foot and the toe of the stocking.

In Figure 2 two very narrow reinforcements 25 and 26 may also be seen, which determine the outline for cutting out the blank of the stocking and which are subsequently comprised in therear seam 25, 26. The body of the stocking is formed by the area of non-reinforced fabric 21 delimited by the outline I3, 25, I6, 23, 22, 2|, 20, 26, I4, I3. In order to simplify the cutting out of the blank intended to form the stocking, the outline I2, I3, 25, I6, Il, I8, I9, 20, 26, I4, I5, I2 and I3 can be outwardly provided with a border formed of a very narrow band of fabric the stitches of which are larger than the stitches of the fabric proper. For the manufacture of a stocking from the so formed fabric the latter is cut out along the outline I2, I3, 25, I6, I'I, I8, I9, 20, 26, I4, I5, I2 and the only thing which remains to do is to sew together the edges of the so cut out fabric to obtain, after dressing or even without any special dressing, a stocking such as that which is shown in Figure 3 and in which one can see the body of the stocking 21 made of nonreinforced fabric sewn from I3I4 to I628 and. from 22 to I3a and, on the other hand, the lined top part B, I3a, I3, I43, B and finally the heel, the foot and the toe which is sewn at 22,

I8, I'I, I9, I620.

The outlining of the reinforced parts of the heel, foot and toe by the reinforcement of the fabric itself along the outline I2, I3, I3a, I4, I5, on one hand, and I6, I'I, I8, I9, 28, 2I, 22 and 23, on the other hand, permits the obtaining of an outline in the finished stocking, which corresponds absolutely to the form desired forthe reinforcement which forms the heel, the foot and the toe, without having to distend at this point either the non-reinforced part or the reinforced part of the stocking during the finishing of the latter. In like manner, the reinforcement from I3 to I6 and from I4 to 28 (indicated at 25 and 26) of the fabric area intended to form the body of the stocking permits the obtaining of a great regularity in the conformation of the said body during the sewing together of two edges 25 and 26.

It may be seen, on the other hand, that it is not necessary to exercise any special caution as to a longitudinal folding line as was the case with the former method, nor to take into consideration the deformations of the fabric which may occur during such a folding operation. It is the fabric itself which receives on the loom, with regard to its area intended to form the stocking, such a form that, without having to take any other precaution, it is sufiicient to cut out all the fabric in excess with respect to the finished stocking blank and simply to unite by means of a scam the outer edges of the blank, which is strengthened at various points and which has been cut out from the piece of fabric.

It will be noted furthermore that the very narrow reinforcements 25, 26 which may be reduced, for instance, to the dimension of a strengthened stitch, can be used to provide a seam of the desired thickness along the said narrow reinforcements and without having to fold or roll the fabric nor to sew it with thicker threads or with a larger number of threads.

In Figures 4 and 5, which relate to the making of a pair of drawers, the piece of fabric is reinforced during weaving in all the areas which are delimited by the outline 28, 29, 38, 3|. 28 on one hand, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 31, 32, on the other hand and, furthermore, 38, 39, 49, 4|, 42, 43, 38. Besides this, a very narrow reinforcement can be made during weaving along the outline 29-29a, 3233, 33a,38, 4343a, 3536, and 44--30. In making the pair of drawers, the blank is cut out from the piece of fabric along the outline 28, 29, 29a, 32, 33, 33a, 38, 39, 40, 4|, 42, 43, 43a, 35, 36, 44, 30, 3| and 28, the reinforced parts 28, 29, 3|], 2| and 38, 39, 40, 4|, 42, 43 are each folded upon themselves and sewn along 2939 and 38-43 and then, the upper and lower parts of the so prepared blank are folded one upon another along the line C-C, after which the edges 28, 29, 29a and 33a, 38, 39, 49 as well as the edges 4|, 42, 43, 43a and 44, 30, 3| are sewn one to another.

The elasticity of the reinforced fabric which forms the waistband may be obtained in known ways by weaving elastic threads into the said reinforced parts I) and c. The only thing which then remains to do is to finish the pair of drawers in the usual manner, for instance by providing it with a border along the opening provided for the legs.

The method under consideration permits the provision of all the linings which the finished article must comprise and more particularly the linings of the toes and heels, in stockings.

In the form of execution shown in Figure 6, besides the reinforcements such as those which are shown in Figures 2 and 3, the piece of fabric can be prepared, during weaving, so as to comprise complementary reinforced parts 45, 46 and 41 the outline of which corresponds to the desired lining. The areas of the normal reinforcements and of the complementary linings are cut out according to the outline and then during the making of the stocking, the said complementary reinforcements are folded along the lines DD, EE, FF and sewn with their free edges onto the normal reinforcements.

Thus a stocking is obtained such as the one shown in Figure 7, in which the toe and the heel are lined at 45, 46 and 41.

What I claim is:

1. A method for the manufacture of stockings and the like provided with reinforced portions, which consists in weaving a fabric constituting a blank provided with reinforced portions which have substantially the exact form of the reinforced parts of the finished blank, in cutting the blank from the said fabric along the outline of the reinforced portions, and in uniting by means of a seam the edges of the blank, the sewing being Number effected, as regards the reinforced portions, along the edges thereof.

2. A method according to claim 1, which includes the steps of weaving narrow reinforcements which delimit the area of the fabric corresponding to the blank of the article to be made, in cutting out the blank and in uniting the edges of the said blank by means of a seam along the said narrow reinforcements.

3. A method according to claim 1, which includes the steps of weaving narrow reinforcements which delimit the area of the fabric corresponding to the blank of the article to be made, in cutting out the blank and in uniting the edges of the said blank by means of a seam along the said narrow reinforcements, the said reinforcements being incorporated with the seam.

4. A method according to claim 1, which includes the steps of weaving complementary reinforcing portions capable of being folded back on the reinforcing portions of the finished blank, in cutting out the blank along the edges of aid complementary reinforcing portions, in folding back the said complementary reinforcing portions onto the reinforcing portions of the blank, and in uniting by means of a seam the edges of the blank, whereby the finished article is lined in certain areas.

5. A method according to claim 1, which includes the step of weaving along the edges of the reinforced portions a narrow band of fabric with stitches which are larger than the titches of the fabric constituting the body of the article to be made.

HENRI GUSTAVE AUGUSTE LEULIETTE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Wittenberg June 16, 1931 Oliver et a1 Apr. 10, 1934 Goodman Nov. 20, 1939 Dick Jan. 31, 1939 Swartz June 6, 1939 Senderowitz Feb. 11, 1941 Donner Jan. 4, 1944 Williamson July 10, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain Feb. 15, 1934 France -1 Mar, 27, 1941 Number 

